Kemmangundi, Bhadra Tiger Reserve and Chickmanglur

May 7th 2010: The famous Kemmangundi trip started late, as our beloved Vikash overslept! The trip was supposed to start at 4 30 am but we left only at 5 45am. well, nothing much was lost though, as we took the NICE road (paid a toll of Rs.83, quite high for just a 32 kms stretch) to connect to NH4, paid a toll of Rs.24 until NH206 then hit Birur, took a left from there and then reached Kemmangundi at around 1pm. 

 Stopped in-between for breakfast and coffee (by the way never have  coffee at this place, 10 kms before Kemmangundi – Cafe Coffee County, they charge Rs. 45 per cup) and was dying to have lunch but as we were getting late for blocking our rooms we decided to get to the guest house even before stopping for lunch, very surprising for a person like me who lives to eat:) The lunch at the guest house canteen was OK, as we were hungry we ate whatever we saw- veg pulao and mini meals. Mind you there is no other place to eat, so better go there with your room booked (from Lalbagh) and eat at this canteen ๐Ÿ™‚


The Horticulture Governmentโ€™s Guest House is a separate story all together. The rooms can be booked for Rs. 200 per day ONLY. The booking has to be done through their Lalbagh office in Bangalore. We got it done a month before, actually the ladies in the team did. Guys are too busy working you see. The Guest House is actually not that bad at all, against my expectation of a clumsy and untidy room as it was way too cheap for me to believe it! The weather also was not too cold or hot, it was rather pleasant. But too many monkeys and dogs around did screw up the serene calmness. We were hardly in our room to complain though. Watch out for really big spiders here, they may not hurt you but may give you nightmares.
 
The first day at Kemmangundi started at 4pm after lunch and a short nap. We planned to go to Kalhatti falls โ€“ what a disappointment. There is no waterfall there, itโ€™s a small stream of water falling. A small temple also has been constructed next to it to give it a religious uplift. A total waste of time. We decided to come back and explore more at the Raj Bhawan, a km above our guest house, and guess what it was such a lovely decision to get here. 

There were many well maintained gardens, at multiple levels, nice flowers all over and the sunset point. We were there from 6pm and stayed until 7 15pm after enjoying the soothing sunset. It was a very refreshing place and we took lot of pictures, not so crowded, pleasant.
 

For dinner we realized that non veg restaurant was open  (which was closed in the afternoon) so we gave the order at 7 30 pm itself ๐Ÿ™‚ the veggie folks got food from the canteen plus ate some tomato curry at this restaurant as well. Donโ€™t have high expectations with this restaurant; itโ€™s just a room with a kitchen next to it. Watch out for spiders. After this we went to the canteen to have tea and watch the India T20 match but it was a total loss for India so we decided to call it a day.
 
The next day was devoted to Bhadra Tiger Reserve โ€“ a 90 kms drive from Kemmangundi. Take my word for it โ€“ donโ€™t ever go there. Itโ€™s a sheer waste of time, energy and money. If you really want to go for a safari then please visit Kanha National Park or Bandipur. But not Bhadra. 

Bhadra Tiger Reserve is totally mismanaged or may be it has been kept like that. No one to talk to, no proper safari. The only safari vehicle is a big van which makes more noise than even a diesel generator(see photo). Internet also does not talk much about it so read it here! We reached knowing nothing about the safari timings and realized that the safari was carried out only at 4pm, we were there at 1030am! 

Actually that gave us some free time to relax near a small stream of water where we did some mountaineering ๐Ÿ™‚ Vikash even left an offspring there โ€“ a leech sucked some blood of his. The lunch was at the ‘Nature camp’ (The entry to the stream is through this camp) where the cook made rice and sambar for us, at rs. 25 per plate ๐Ÿ™‚
 

The safari started only at 4 30pm, even though we were sitting in that vehicle from 3 30 pm. The delay was due a forest official who came there and was staying at the โ€˜Nature campโ€™ got delayed; I guess he was getting ready to be eaten by the tiger. Saw a few peacocks, Bison, deer, a wild sheep, sambar and a wild hen. Started for Chickmanglur at 6pm. 

Had dinner at The Planters Court, chickmanglur. A neat place, food was good but the quantity was way too less. Biryani got over even before I started. Anyways, it was already 9pm and we were left with 42 more kms back to base. We reached the guest house at 11:30 pm, all were almost asleep and I was dead tired. We retired.
 

The early morning was supposed to be the plan for a morning trek, but nobody had the courage to get up at 5am after sleeping at 12 30am. But our hero and heroine โ€“ Vikash and Aditi got up and went for the morning trek. The rest of the gang got up late and got ready by 9am for a longer trek, the breakfast was at the same canteen. Ildi wada is the safest bet. Now this was the time we all were waiting for. 

For the trek we went into the mountain ahead of the guest house and parked till the place there was any drivable road left. Oh by the way, do not bother going to the rock garden, z point, Shanti falls โ€“ itโ€™s a total crap. I donโ€™t even wanna waste your time talking about them. We did not go to the abbey falls as it was said only jeeps can reach there and the cost per jeep is Rs. 750. Looking at the crowd we rather thought we will give it a miss. 

Ok, coming back to the trek. The path was narrow and within 100 mts we saw a small streak of water falling from a rock 1 floor high, past this was a beaten path to the top of one the mountain (this was supposed to be Shanti falls), the first 50 mts were really tough and we all thought how will we ever come back from the same route and relied on our guess that there should be an alternate route to come back, which we later found out that it was not the case and had to come back the same way!
 

The next 2 hours were one of the best in my life! The walk on the plain green mountain, with a cool breeze, we walked till there was no way to go any further and we started moving sideways, then we had to return also to vacate our rooms but we had enough time to have a cup-o-noodle on top of the mountain, yes we carried hot water too! It was so much fun.  The fun became chilly as it was time to return to base via the same path, which was by the way almost 80 degrees steep. It was difficult but not non-achievable, we did it. On the way back to the base I also had a flat tyre ๐Ÿ™
 

After vacating we started for chickmaglur as we had seen a day before the drive thru this route is simply amazing! Got puncture fixed in-between. Had lunch at 4pm in a highway hotel next to The Planters Court. Food was good โ€“ veg fried rice, poori subzi, tea, gobi Manchurian. The highlight was the drive till Bangalore – the antakshari between boyz and girls! We were  very good in creating songs from nowhere and mixing up two songs in one. Would upload few videos soon, if Vikash agrees ๐Ÿ™‚
 
The ride from there was very rough โ€“ firstly it rained heavily, the roads did not have dividers and as it was getting dark even the headlights were of not much use in that heavy rain! Do not ever take NH48. The construction is on for god knows when and god knows when it will finish. We reached home only at 12am.
 
Summary: Total of 850 kms, 5 folks in a Santro freaking out for 3 days!        

6 thoughts on “Kemmangundi, Bhadra Tiger Reserve and Chickmanglur”

  1. This was such a great trip! And the mountain trek was the cream on the cake! And boys, do remember that when girls do the planning…we cut down on the cost (Rs. 200/day/room), but not on the fun quotient ๐Ÿ˜‰ ๐Ÿ˜‰ !!!!!
    Hope to have many more such trips with the gang ๐Ÿ™‚

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